Sunday, 27 October 2013

Mantau research redux

The more you research, the more you learn of how little we know. After yesterday’s post I had a discussion with a couple of friends and I learned two nuggets that I feel that I have to share with you as soon as possible.

First, Anéa has posted several of her own photos of the Norwegian mantua, with additional information on her Livejournal.

The Shrewsbury mantua
The Valdemar mantua
Second, the Valdemar Castle gown DOES have a pattern! It can be found in a Danish book, Moden i 1700-årene, fra 1690 till 1790 by Ellen Andersen, published in 1977. I’m sure that you understand why it makes me exited. This means that there are patterns for three early mantuas! I was given a photocopy of that book years ago from a friend and I have always assumed I got all of the patterns, but I hadn’t. It also highlights how unknown costume research remains when it isn’t translated to English. I have yet to se the pattern, but I have been informed that even though it has pleated sleeves that look similar to the Shrewsbury mantua, they are set in sleeves and not cut with the rest of the gown as that one is. I find it very interesting that three gowns that are of the same type and also in  such a narrow time frame, 1690-1710, seems to be quite different from each other. I look forward to have all three patterns for a better comparison.
The Kimberley mantua
  

 

9 comments:

ZipZip said...

Dear Isis,
This is really interesting and exciting. Mantua patterns are so rare, and it can be a little mind-bending figuring out the draping, despite the fact that so many were based on T-shaped garments.
Very best,
Natalie

Sanna K said...

Now, where can I buy that book!? :)

Isis said...

Sanna K: It is sadly out of print, so you will have to browse old books store. There are a couple copies to be found at antikvarie.net for example.

Isis said...

Natalie: I'm glad you found it interesting! :D

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden said...

I have a copy of the book. I can scan some patterns for you - just email aylwengg at gmail dot com :)

Sanna K said...

Thank you! I ordered one! :)

Isis said...

Aylwen: Thank you for your kind offer, but I have ordered the book- I felt I needed it. :)

Sanna: So have I. :D

Sanna K said...

Did you receive it already? I tried ordering it but the sleer couldn't access my credit card and he contacted me and I sent a reply to it and then he just didn't reply to my e mail anymore. So I guess I have to try to order it from another seller...

Isis said...

Sanna: No, I had some trouble too and then I forgot it... I need to find a new copy! :)

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